2 days in Yangon, Myanmar (Burma)
Arriving in Myanmar, or Burma, I didn’t have any expectations of what the country would be like. Many people asked me if I felt safe travelling in Myanmar due to the civil unrest occurring. The answer is that Myanmar is one of the most amazing places I have every visited and I felt very safe. The thousands of stunning pagodas and beautiful, array of cultures took me by surprise and I will never forget it. I had a great time exploring the beautiful city of Yangon, also know as Rangoon, during my first few days in Myanmar.
Buddhism in Myanmar
There are a variety of religions practiced in Myanmar including Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, and more. Friction between religious groups is common in Myanmar especially concerning the clashes between Buddhists and Rohingya Muslims occurring currently.
It is estimated that almost 90% of people in Myanmar practice Theravada Buddhism. I felt very fortunate to observe the different practices and traditions of this beautiful religion. I had the opportunity to speak to a few monks during my time in Myanmar and learn more about Buddhism. It is said that Buddhism has existed in Myanmar for over two thousand years. The aim of Theravada Buddhists is to achieve nirvana and be released from the cycle of suffering. Building positive karma or merit is very important. One tradition I was able to witness is the food and alms collected each morning by the monks in order to build merit and bring good karma for the giver. There are over 400,000 monks, 75,000 nuns, and countless pagodas in Myanmar today. Burmese monks wear maroon robes and are held at a high position in society. Between age 10 and 20, nearly every boy enters a monastery to study the Buddhist scriptures and meditation processes as a novice monk.
Shwedagon Pagoda
“Then, a golden mystery upheaved itself on the horizon, a beautiful winking wonder that blazed in the sun, of a shape that was neither Muslim dome nor Hindu temple-spire. It stood upon a green knoll, and below it were lines of warehouses, sheds, and mills. Under what new god, thought I, are we irrepressible English sitting now?” – Rudyard Kipling
The Shewdagon Padoga is one of the most popular places for tourists to visit in Yangon and one of the most famous pagodas in the world. This 99 meters high pagoda sits on top of Singuattara Hill and can be seen from all around the city. The golden top of the pagoda dominates the skyline and illuminates the city at night! According to legend, this massive pagoda was built more than 2500 years ago, which would make it the oldest pagoda in the country. Historical evidence suggests it was built by the Mon people between the 6th and 10th century.
The main stupa, the large hemispherical structure, at the Shewdagon Pagoda is believed to enshrine relics of the four previous Budhhas including 8 hairs of the most recent Buddha. This pagoda is also known as the Golden Pagoda because the stupa’s plinth is made of bricks covered with gold plates. The crown is also tipped with 5,448 diamonds and 2,317 rubies! It is hard to describe how magnificent the Shewdagod Pagoda is. It is one of the most mesmerizing and astonishing structures I have ever seen. I didn’t realize how large it really was until I actually got inside. The large complex also includes a prayer hall with an eight meter long Reclining Buddha, a pavilion was a 23 ton bell, and many smaller pavilions. This is the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar and it is not hard to understand why.
There are a few things worth knowing before visiting the Shwedagon Pagoda. It is customary to walk around the Buddist stupa, here or at any other pagoda, in a clockwise direction. Be sure to dress respectfully by always having your shoulders and knees covered. Visitors are required to remove their shoes and socks before entering. These can be left at the entrance or you can carry them around in a plastic bag but I don’t think that is necessary. You also have the option to pay for a guide to tell you about all the different temples and pavilions. Always be respectful to the people who are at the pagoda to pray and worship.
There are four different entrances to the Shwedagon Pagoda. Each entrance leads up a flight of stairs to the main platform. The pagoda is open everyday from 6am to 10pm. I recommend visiting during sunrise or sunset when it is the coolest out. The ground can be very hot on your bare feet during the day. We visited this beautiful pagoda around 5pm as the sun was beginning to set. We spent about two hours here admiring all the different elements. It costs 10,000 kyats for a foreigner, which I found well worth it!
Kandawgyi Lake & Karaweik Palace
Kandawgyi Lake, meaning “great, royal lake,” is one of the two major lakes in Yangon. In the middle of the lake, the gold Karaweik birds of the palace seem to float on the surface of the water. The Karaweik Palace started as a rowing club and was then transformed into a hotel. In October 2017, a fire destroyed the hotel. It is now a fancy buffet restaurant and culture show. Surrounding the lake is the large Kandawgyi Nature Park and the Yangon Zoological Gardens. Many small and more affordable restaurants can be found here along with a zoo, amusement park, and aquarium. There were children playing soccer and small shops to pick up some souvenirs.
We spent most of our time here walking around the lake and admiring the palace. Kandawgyi Lake and Palace is a great area to do a bit of shopping, have a meal, and take some great photos.
The Reclining Buddha – Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda
Just north of Kandawgyi Lake, the Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda houses the Reclining Buddha image in Yangon. This massive Buddha is 65 meters long and 16 meters high. It was completed in 1907 with renovations in 1966 adding the last 5 meters. The Reclining Buddha is wearing a golden robe and is decorated in many colours; red lips, blue eye shadow, red fingernails, and a white face. Local people come here to pray to one of the shrines surrounding the Buddha image that represents the day they were born.
I found the soles of the Buddha’s feet to be particularly interesting. There are 108 distinguishing marks on the soles of the Buddha representing three worlds – the inanimate world (Okasaloka), the animate world (Sattaloka), and the conditioned world (Sankharaloka).
There are several monasteries around this area so you will likely get the chance to see a few monks. We had the opportunity to speak to a monk about the history behind the Reclining Buddha. Be sure to dress conservatively and be ready to take off your shoes before entering. The Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda is open from 6am to 8pm. Unfortunately, it was very under construction when we were there so I wasn’t able to get any great photos. So you’ll just have to visit for yourself!
Botataung Pagoda & River Front
Botataung Pagoda means 1000 military leaders. The 40 meter tall pagoda was built around 2500 years ago during the Mon Dynasty and rebuilt in 1948. It enshrines a sacred hair of the Gautama Buddha. The main stupa is unique because it has a hollow interior that allows visitors to walk inside the pagoda. Inside, glass containers showcase different artifacts and relics of the Buddha.
The Botataung Pagoda is situated near the Yangon River with many restaurants nearby. The pagoda is open daily from 6am to 8pm and costs 3000 kyats (around $2 USD) for a foreigner. Be sure to check out this amazing pagoda before walking to the river for a great meal!
Exploring Nearby Villages
While I loved having the chance to explore various sites and monuments in Yangon, I had the best time exploring nearby villages. The small village of Thaketa is made up of several family-run handicraft shops and businesses. We rode on trishaws through the narrow streets and had the opportunity to visit seven of these homes and small shops. The first was a jade carving workshop that specializes in incredible Buddha image statues. Next we went to a small home of two brothers that hand carve very impressive wood statues and religious figures. We also visited a wooden harp workshop that made these beautiful instruments in various shapes and sizes! One of the favourite places we had the chance to visit was a shop of a man who made pictures of Myanmar life out of rice straw and glue! Next we had the opportunity to watch a family make pottery. An elderly lady made dozens of unique pots and vases during the short time we were there! We went to the Traditional Rattan Workshop where they made impressive products like baskets and chairs out of bamboo and rattan. It was very eye opening to watch how much work these ladies put into making chairs that we take for granted back home. The last place we visited was the Myanmar Traditional Handmade Toys workshop. Here they make animal shaped toys of various sizes from paper mache and later hand paint.
It was very interesting to see how the people in the Thaketa village live and make a living. I am very grateful that they let us into their homes and shops and I was even able to purchase a few handcrafts!
